Coolant Preferences

Well, I've done some searches on the old and new boards and I haven't found anything definitive on my question so I'll just go ahead and ask.

Anyone have a preference on coolant, or any info on what brands or formualtions to look for / avoid?

I can say I've heard to stay away from the orange stuff (Dexcool). But I also read the problem that caused the issue on that was poor fitting radiator caps that allowed contaminants to get in the system. I did run Dexcool myself and had no problems but I went back to the green stuff a few years ago. I thought about Evans NPG+ (no water, polypropylene based I believe) but I think I better stay with the glycol based stuff since that's what the seals are used to seeing for the last 25 years. I did have a parts mgr tell me Prestone wasn't that good since they concentrate on discount store sales. Anyway guys, if you have info I'd love to hear it.

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Rotorhog

If Einstien were a car guy, he'd drive a rotary ...

Water with Water Wetter, but only if you really need the extra heat transfere and never let it freeze.

quote:

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Originally posted by Mouse
Water with Water Wetter, but only if you really need the extra heat transfere and never let it freeze.

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John Powell

The Man's Prayer:
"I'm a man, but I can change ... if I have to ... I guess."

My car (story and photos) http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/716903

50/50 mix of the green stuff. Just be sure and change it out every few years.

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Erik Ugly doesn't matter as long as it passes tech.

OK, went ahead and used the green stuff. I was going to use the Zerex 50/50 premix green but all they had was straight coolant, I didn't feel like running over to Wal Mart for DI water so I bought the NAPA house brand green that was premixed. Specs look the same as Zerex so it should hold up for 2 years to the next change. That and a bottle of water wetter and I'm good to go.

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Rotorhog

If Einstien were a car guy, he'd drive a rotary ...

If you're changing it out every few years, does distilled water matter that much? When I was a beginning technician I asked, "Where's the distilled water?" The answer was, "See that tap over there? That's a magic water tap. Say 'distilled water' three times while waving your hands over it and then fill your jug with the water." We never had any problems, but I wonder how many of those cars eventually ended up with scale because of that?

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Erik Ugly doesn't matter as long as it passes tech.

I can't remember where I got this, but I read an article that said not to use distilled water as an engine coolant. The argument was that, as distilled water has no minerals in it, it leaches minerals from the engine thus weakening the metal parts, which leads eventually to engine failure. I don't know how accurate this is, but maybe someone else knows of this theory.

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John Powell

The Man's Prayer:
"I'm a man, but I can change ... if I have to ... I guess."

My car (story and photos) http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/716903

That theory is BS. I'm with Flyboy, the magic stuff that comes out of the tap is what goes in. As for adding Water Wetter to coolant, don't. All it is is the additives that are already in the green stuff...rust inhibitors, antifoaming agents, lube for the water pump etc. As far as changing it in 2 years, that's what'll really make a difference! Most people let it go for many years and all the additives get used up or flat die off and things go downhill quick.

I use distilled water and water wetter (also anti fungal) in my computer, but I figure it's a bit more sensitive to what goes through it and it never freezes...either way you take it.

BTW, I recall someone bringing up propylene glycol (sp?) here somewhere a while back.

Last edited by Mouse on 04.03.2009, 20:23.

Yeah that propolyene glycol bit may have been me asking if anyone had any first hand knowledge of Evans NPG+. I was tempted as I like the bit about no water so no entrained oxygen to abet the corrosion process. I didn't use it because a) wasn't sure how the internal coolant seals would like the chemistry change after 25 years of green stuff, and b) how are it's anticorrosion properties for controlling what may already be there?
As I understand it's designed to be used at atmospheric pressure (boils at ~300 degf) but will work fine in a normal pressure coolant system. Also it is more viscous than water or coolant but not so much as to require any changes like water pump, thermostat etc. They claim it actually removes more heat out of the motor since it eliminates film boiling areas. I guess I'm too scared to be the guinea pig...

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Rotorhog

If Einstien were a car guy, he'd drive a rotary ...